India Must See #3:
A Morning on the Ganges

Number #3 on the India Must See list is a morning on the Ganges.

Check out my 30 second video of a misty morning on the Ganges, if you haven't already seen it!

I've been asked whether Varanasi (Benares) is too touristy now and whether a first timer should go somewhere more 'real'. After all, there are ghats all over India's rivers so what makes Varanasi so special? Is there a compelling alternative?

My answer is this: I understand that some tourists like to get off the beaten track, not go where all the other tourists go and on the whole I think that's a fantastic idea. As you'll see from my number #5 thing on the list, which is to 'keep it real' by going and deliberately meeting people in villages outside the cities or in an urban slum if you can't get out of town.

But there are some places which are on must see lists for a reason—this city has been a pilgrimage site for thousands of years. Buddha gave his first sermon under a tree just on the outskirts of town at Sarnath. Yes, there are hawkers on the river in the early morning mist, trying to sell you cheap tat. But hey, that's India and tourism is big business. But it really is magical, nevertheless. Varanasi has the quintessential Indian vibe. It's not 'so five minutes ago', it's 'so five thousand years ago' and still a must see—that's got to be worth something.

My tip: If you can book ahead enough to get accommodation with a view of the river, you won't be disappointed. If you don't feel like you're up for mixing with everyone, just gaze out the window and pretend you're an Indian princess (ok, that's what I do!).

Oh and a bonus tip:As long as they still have the same chef, do yourself a favour and eat at the Hotel Haifa. You can find their details in the Lonely Planet. Last time Francis and I were there, we could bring ourselves to eat anywhere else. Oh. My. Ohhhhh mmmmmyyyy….. You'll be ruined for suburban take away curries though, be warned.

The pic above is of kids exploring one of the ghats at Varanasi which I could take a photo of (WARNING: DO NOT take photos of funeral ghats--very very uncool. It's not a tourist event, it's a funeral!)

Bit if you've decided that may all be a little much, my alternative India Must See suggestion would be Rishikesh, most easily arrived to via hired car (with driver) or a taxi from Haridwar (you can get the train that far). It's also got the ghats-factor but much smaller (so in my mind it wasn't quite the same), though in some ways it's just as intense.

The Ganges comes out from the mountains just here and so it's flowing vigorously (enough for white-water rafting just outside of town) and there's gurus on tap and Ashrams everywhere. It' s one of my favorite places in India too, but I don't think it's an either/or—it's definitely both-and.

Back to India Must See Index

Back to #1: The Taj Mahal

Back to #2: A Himalayan Hill Station

Go to #4: Rajasthan

Go to #5: Basti (Slum) or Village Life

Back from 'India Must See' to India Travel Secrets home...